Traditions of Baghdad
The round city of the caliphs, still a city of tea houses, book markets, mourning processions and masgouf fish.
Baghdad was founded in the eighth century and became a world centre of learning, poetry and trade. The Tigris still defines it. Iraqi culture keeps old traditions of storytelling, tea houses and music. The Mutanabbi Street book market, held on Fridays, is a place where writers and readers gather.
Books, tea and the shrine
Along Mutanabbi Street, booksellers set out their volumes on Friday mornings, and customers discuss them in nearby cafes. Shia pilgrims visit the shrine of Imam Musa al-Kadhim, and Ashura and Arbaeen are marked with huge processions. Iraqi maqam, a classical vocal form, is performed in the old cafes.
At the table
Masgouf, carp split open and grilled upright beside a fire, is the national dish and is eaten by the Tigris. Dolma, kubba, and tashreeb are served at feasts. Breakfast might be kahi with date syrup. Iraqis drink strong sweet tea in small glasses, and dates are served to every guest.
Signature traditions of Baghdad
Also part of it, and being written: Masgouf (The grilled fish of the Tigris.), Iraqi maqam (Classical music of Iraq.), Arbaeen (The pilgrimage of mourning.), Ashura (The day of mourning.).
A trail idea for Baghdad
- Mutanabbi Street Browse the Friday book market.
- Shabandar Café Drink tea in a long-lived literary cafe.
- Tigris riverside Eat grilled fish in the evening.
Written by the EveryParampara desk with AI assistance. Opening hours, markets and festival dates change; check locally before travelling. Customs differ from place to place and family to family. If this is your tradition and we have it wrong, tell us.
Photo credits on this page
The small pictures above come from Wikimedia Commons under free licences. Some are cropped to fit.
- Arabic coffee: Canbel, CC BY-SA 4.0, source